In 1877, a set of three matching rowhomes in the Second Empire style were built in west Elmira on the bank of the Chemung River. In 1972, Hurricane Agnes wrecked them. In 2017, Capriotti Properties purchased 389-399 W. Water Street and renovated them into apartments—except for the first floor of 389, which became a locally known and beloved craft beer and wine bar called Finger Lakes House.

Dusty and Holly Griffith have a blended family of five kids, and enjoyed hanging out there, sitting by the river and having a beer (the adults). Then one day when Dusty was on a bike ride, the owner stopped him, said he was selling the place, and asked if the couple wanted to purchase it. Holly, a software engineer for Corning Incorporated, says she didn’t know how to run this type of business, but Dusty, who had worked as a bartender and in marketing, had the background, and they saw it as an investment opportunity. “Not just financially,” she explains, “but an investment in this community.” If you bring a receipt showing you shopped locally that week, they’ll give you a discount. In 2022, Dusty and Holly bought the business, continuing the tasting room approach and adding a focus on local artists.

“We focus on supporting local creatives,” says Dusty, a tattoo artist.

Being in a residential area, the bar flies under the radar. It’s easy to miss driving by because the historic neighborhood doesn’t allow signs to be lit. Dusty and Holly love the Speakeasy vibe and watching the expressions of people walking through the door for the first time. But they admit it’d be cool if more people knew they were there.

The only one of the rowhomes to have a portico, the entry opens into a central hall with stairs that go up to the upper residences. To the left and right are doors, the left one leading to laughter and libations. The warmth inside is both human and architectural. Comfy armchairs are tucked against tall windows facing the street, beside a shelf of board games and checkers. Crown molding frames the pewter-colored stamped ceiling tiles, and walls—which include gorgeous, exposed brick—showcase local talent. One gallery wall displays a new artist every two months.

The space is narrow. A long bar, with a base made from wood repurposed from the original structure, stretches back more than half the length. Original doorknobs are underneath for hanging purses. The top is new, sleek, and usually covered in flights or individual glasses that Dusty fills and clears while chatting. There is no liquor, but usually eight to twelve wines are available as well as fifteen to thirty beers, Saranac brand sodas, and the mocktails Dusty creates. There are a select few exceptions to the “local” rule, Dusty admits. “I’m a Carolina boy, so we carry Cheerwine.” For beer drinkers not into the craft explosion, PBR and Stella Artois are on tap.

The only screens in the place show the drink options. “We want to encourage people to talk to each other,” Holly says. “With no TVs, the bar is full of conversations, people connecting.”

At the end of the bar a door opens onto a back deck that sits above the concrete levee that has, since Agnes, protected the rowhomes from the water of the Chemung River. Tables and some gas firepits make it a coveted hangout spot. Similar decks are found on each story, with the second floor being an Airbnb, whose occupants get a discount at the bar, and the third, well “That’s Miss Ethel,” Dusty says of the renter. Maybe in her eighties, he’s not sure, but he knows “she’s awesome, and has more style than all of us.”

“We aren’t able to have a fryer because of the Airbnb upstairs,” Dusty says, so they use an air fryer to cook their flatbreads, crab Rangoon, tacos, and other food that’s far from the greasy fare often associated with bars. He pours a draft that’s half Saranac Caramel Porter and half Ellicottville Chocolate Cherry Bomb, a dessert imperial stout. The customer tastes and lifts his glass in approval. “The porter takes the edge of the cherry,” Dusty explains.

Lynnell Donnelly raves about the jalapeno pepper flatbread with blackberry drizzle. She’s come here since before Dusty and Holly took over. In fact, her niece got married here in May 2022, just before the transition. “I can come dressed for work or in a hoodie,” she says. “The vibe is always good.” Beside her, Lauri Cardamone, Elmira born and raised, nods and sips her glass of semi-dry Riesling from Lamoreaux Landing in Lodi. They used to meet here at the end of the workday. No longer working together, they still make it a point to connect. They like the neighborhood feel that’s friendly, but not too friendly, Lynnell says, making her meaning clear. “I’d come in here by myself. There are places I would not go alone.”

The brick arch that leads to the restrooms and kitchen, also leads to the other side of the building, the Lucky Heron Lounge. It’s a chameleon space, with furniture changing to suit whatever private event or pop-up shop is here—anything from painters to custom jewelry crafters. Dusty held a pop-up tattoo parlor there earlier that day—something Lynnell and Lauri want to catch next time. Live music can often be heard in the tasting room, and every Thursday at 7 p.m. is trivia night. Upcoming events are posted on the Finger Lakes House Facebook page or Instagram, or call (607) 735-2200 to book a private event. With lounge furniture, a large screen TV, arcade games (they have twelve to choose from), and a late-night bartender of your own, the Lucky Heron Lounge could host the sports night of your dreams. Dusty and Holly are open to accommodating different types of events, and the off-street parking lot is a bonus.

This rowhome restoration project Jim Capriotti and his team took on did more than restore what were housing units for the management staff of the former Richardson & Co.’s Boot and Shoe Factory, located on Railroad Avenue and Market Street from 1861 to 1908. It restored life into walls constructed of shale bricks manufactured by J. Phillip Weyer in kilns located on Newtown Creek. And Finger Lakes House is bringing new energy and creativity to this stretch of Elmira.

Holly wants people to make the space their own and loves the diversity of folks who come in after a round of golf or from getting a tattoo (sometimes the same people). “We’re inviting you into our house,” she says. Please make yourself at home.”